Course 7
ALL DAY BY KRAMERS- 1517 Connecticut Ave NW, Washington, DC 20036
DC is many things, but a casual breakfast town is not one. There are caves of caffeine and carbs for the untethered proletariat to type away in perpetuity. There are glistening temples of hospitality for C-suite execs to broker deals over a forty dollar frittata. They each have their place in a city of overeducated workaholics.
But where does one go for that unpretentious plate of sunnyside eggs, toast and bacon? I don't need the eggs drowned in a Shakshuka, nor a powerpoint about the sourcing of the bacon. My childhood in the five borough metropolis up north taught me there is only one place to find a breakfast of this caliber- a beacon of all things dependable, non judgemental and perhaps most importantly, cheap.
A diner is the Statue of Liberty of its neighborhood- welcoming the tired, poor, huddled masses with a basic agreement:
you will recognize everything on the menu
the food will neither overwhelm, nor underwhelm
don't be a pain in the ass.
They are society's great equalizer, where a family with young children, teenagers on a first date, and the remnants of a kickball team after hours of day drinking, can all find something on the menu to satisfy their particular craving.
While these gems of inclusion do exist in DC, they are not in mass, and often overlooked when the word “diner” is not within the name itself. A diner is more than a name though, it is a state of being.
Kramers, previously Kramerbooks, has been a DC institution as an independent bookseller since 1976. Although it has always had some form of a food and beverage component, and still operates a dining counter within the bookstore itself to this day, it has pushed to further legitimize this service in a space beside the bookstore called, All Day.
Upon entering, the wood floors of its hundred year old building and the antique casegoods displaying dusty novels offer an embrace of recognition. Central Perk vibes abound, as they have chosen an eclectic smattering of wood chairs pulled up to tables and soft seating, all possessing a weathered patina of wear demanding respect. In almost blinding contrast at the far end of the space, a retro dining counter with white tile and chrome accents appear, stools lined ready for patrons to perch and skim the double sided laminated menus.
The menu includes classic breakfast fare like an eggs/meat/toast/potatoes combo called the Kramers Breakfast, in addition to omelets, waffles, french-toast, and benedicts. In flipping the menu, I behold the majestic diversity that only resides at a diner. Items like Maryland Crab dip, a Mediterranean hummus bowl, chicken pot pie, and veggie lasagna, all nested beside each other in unlikely harmony.
It being 8:30 AM on a Friday, I opt for a western omelet with potatoes and sausage, which arrives no more than 8 leisurely sips of coffee later. It tastes like every other western omelet I have consumed, no better, no worse. It is comforting.
After being offered the most elusive of DC service, free coffee refills, I choose to linger a while longer. I was the lone patron for a while but now a few other tables are filled, one with friends who seemingly were colleagues in a prior life, another with a young family.
I hold the coffee mug in both hands, as I invite the warmth of the beverage to travel through my fingertips and up my arms to combat the chill the frigid morning has embedded in my body. The mug is a smooth thick ceramic, a type I have seen at countless diners, or at economical hotels by their continental breakfasts. They feel sturdy and dependable. It is comforting.
I look around and wonder, how many friendships have developed here? How many breakups? How many nothings that were actually somethings?
What All Day, and diners like it, seem to understand is that they don't need to strive for exceptionalism in their offerings. We have enough of that in this town, largely out of price points that would enable regular consumption. By offering a backdrop of approachability, predictability and authenticity- nothing too nice, nothing too precious, something for everyone- it creates the space for a solo-diner to have an unplanned moment of respite after skimming the book aisles, or a group to have comfortable conversation. The exceptionalism comes from the experience people are left with, and why they keep returning- the power of feeling welcomed and accepted.
As I pay my $20 check, they ask if I would like one more coffee refill to go. Although grateful for the unexpected offer, I politely decline. I am ready to brave the world. I got what I came for.
Enjoyed this article on Kramers. A plain breakfast which people enjoy the most. It looked delicious and I would love to eat there. You mentioned chicken pot pie and vegetable lasagna.
Umm, all my favorites.
Be it ever so humble 😉